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Get out of town – Denmark’s rural stars
2018 sees even more Michelin stars for Denmark than any previous year. With a total of 31 stars awarded, Michelin showcases the extraordinary culinary offering in Danish restaurants, not just in Copenhagen but in the provinces and beyond.
Away from the capital, the beautiful Henne Kirkeby Kro on Jutland’s west coast, gained an impressive second star last year under the tutelage of English chef Paul Cunningham. With the enviable position of having access to the restaurant’s kitchen garden – the largest in Denmark – Cunningham has delivered a molecular cuisine using precision techniques. He admits to being an “incorrigible Francophile”, and has spurned the notion of Nordic cuisine, famously declining an invitation to open ‘Noma’, instead suggesting René Redzepi.
Even more removed from Copenhagen, Bornholm is home to the one-starred ‘Kadeau’. On the south coast of this small Danish territory in the Baltic Sea, this island outpost and sister to ‘Kadeau Copenhagen’ is set in an updated beach pavilion. Surrounded by forest, beach and the sea, ‘Kadeau Bornholm’ has a real sense of terroir and therefore sources the best local produce. Traditional and contemporary cooking techniques turn that produce into modern gastronomy. Chef Nicolai Nørregaard, a native of the island, bases his cuisine on the wild nature of the place and is a keen proponent of the Nordic Cuisine Manifesto.
An hour’s drive south from Copenhagen, on the edge of Præstø, is Hotel Frederiksminde. At the helm of its Michelin starred restaurant is chef Jonas Mikkelsen. He is widely recognised by food critics in Denmark as one of the country’s greatest talents. Surrounded by beach and sea, under Mikkelsen, the restaurant is beginning to gain acclaim from outside of Denmark. As soon as Michelin ventured outside of the big Nordic cities in 2016, Mikkelsen landed the star that his foraged, natural cuisine so deserved.
Featured Designer – Arne Jacobsen
1902 – 1971
He received a gold medal for his graduation project (an art gallery) from the School of Architecture at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, and his long career was launched.
An interesting character, Arne Jacobsen was known as a perfectionist modernist, never overlooking the smallest of detail but he was also heavily into nature and botany and painted watercolours. During World War II, to escape persecution for his Jewish heritage, the Danish resistance helped him escape by row boat to Sweden where he spent two years designing textiles and wallpaper.
Arne Jacobsen’s chair designs are probably the most iconic and well-known of his portfolio. They are part of design history, simple and functional in minimalist Danish style. The Egg Chair, Swan Chair and Ant Chair (now the Series 7 chair) can be found in many stylish establishments today.
Among the buildings that he was commissioned to design is the world’s first designer hotel, the SAS Royal Hotel (now the Radisson Blu Royal) in Copenhagen. Everything in the hotel was designed by Arne Jacobsen, from the employees’ uniforms, lighting, furniture and door handles to the ash trays sold in the shop. Hotel guests today can book room 606, the Arne Jacobsen Suite, a showcase for the original décor.
St. Catherine’s College, University of Oxford, received Grade I listing in 1993 and was also designed by Arne Jacobsen. Again, he was responsible for designing all aspects of the project, including the famous high back ‘Oxford’ chairs and the flatware. The college boasts open plan quads and unique interiors. He even chose the species of fish for the pond.
The award-winning cocktail and tableware series Cylinda-line was designed by Arne Jacobsen in 1967 for Stelton. So iconic, simple and stunning, Cylinda-line is still in production and available from Century Design.
Although it is many years since his death the Arne Jacobsen legacy still lives on. He embodied the concept of ‘Gesamtkunstwerk’, a work of art that makes use of all or many art forms.